On the Table — Foraged Flavor: The Indigenous Roots of Chiapas’ Cuisine

Sofia Salazar-Rubio | 03.30.2015

The southern Mexican state of Chiapas is better known as the birthplace of the Zapatistas than for its cuisine. Though overshadowed internationally by neighboring Oaxaca, Chiapas’ humble, indigenous-influenced food is deserving of recognition in its own right.

Home to one of Mexico’s largest indigenous populations—about one quarter of Chiapans are of full Maya descent [1. Wolcott, Jennifer. “A chef says olé to foods of Chiapas.” The Boston Globe, Feb. 2008. http://www.boston.com/lifestyle/food/articles/2008/02/20/a_chef_says_ol_to_foods_of_chiapas/.]—Chiapas’ food reflects its indigenous roots. Quelites—wild leafy greens traditionally foraged in Mesoamerica when animal husbandry was less widespread and diets were heavily plant based—persist as staples of contemporary Chiapan cuisine. Chipilín (also known as chepil), a wild legume which tastes like a cross between watercress and spinach, is steamed or boiled; dried and used as an herb; or added to dishes for color and flavor. On top of its culinary versatility, the chipilín plant is a nitrogen fixer that helps improve soil fertility. [2. Leaf For Life,“Chipilin” http://leafforlife.org/PAGES/CROTALAR.HTM. Accessed March 26, 2015.] Nutrient rich and easily accessible, chipilín provided an important nutritional supplement to the mostly vegetarian peasant diet [3. Leaf for Life,“Chipilin.”]

The state’s varied topography, ranging from mountains and plains to seacoast, is suitable for farming, ranching, and fishing, giving way to a diverse cuisine. Thanks to Mayan advancements in slope irrigation and drainage, a wide variety of crops are cultivated throughout Chiapas, including cacao, mangos, watermelon, tobacco, beans, and avocados. [4. Graber, Karen Hursh. “The cuisine of Chiapas: Dining in Mexico’s last frontier.” Mexconnect. http://www.mexconnect.com/articles/2081-the-cuisine-of-chiapas-dining-in-mexico-s-last-frontier. Updated January 1, 2003.] Like most of Mesoamerica, corn is a dietary staple consumed in a variety of forms; but compared to other regional cuisines, chili peppers feature less prominently—native varieties, like the extremely hot simojovel, are mostly relegated to condiments—with the Chiapan palate favoring sweeter ingredients like tomatoes, plantains, pineapple, raisins, cinnamon, and cloves. [5. Graber, “The Cuisine of Chiapas.”]

One of the most popular dishes in Chiapas are tamales, steamed masa (corn dough) cakes. Tamales chiapanacos are commonly flavored with chipilín or hoja santa, another native aromatic herb, and steamed in banana leaves rather than cornhusks. Typical tamal fillings include jacuané (black beans, dried shrimp, and pumpkin seeds), de bola (pork in a simojovel sauce), and more exotic fillings like turtle and iguana. [6. “Chiapas.” Artes Mexico. http://www.artesmexico.org/cocinarte/chiapas.asp. Accessed March 27, 2015.]

The unique flavor of Chiapas’ indigenous cuisine is beginning to make waves internationally. Celebrity chefs like Rick Bayless in the US have sung its praises—Bayless even brought a group of chefs to Chiapas, inspiring others to begin cooking Chiapan dishes back home. [7. Wolcott, “A chef says olé to foods of Chiapas.”] Most importantly, the state of Chiapas itself has begun to recognize the importance of its food heritage, promoting traditional Chiapan cuisine through events like culinary festivals and competitions. [8. “A impulsar la gastronomía chiapaneca.” El Universal. http://www.eluniversal.com.mx/articulos/61447.html. Published November 9, 2010.]

Tamales with Chipilín
Adapted from the Perennial Plate and Food.com
Makes about 24 tamales

Though native to Mesoamerica, chipilín is not commercially available in the US, where it is actually classified as a noxious weed. However, the leafy legume is starting to show up in CSA boxes and farmers markets, so keep your eyes open for a bunch on your next trip—or try growing your own!

Tabasco_Tamal_de_ChipilínIngredients
4 cups masa harina
½ cup butter (1 stick ), cut into small chunks
1 tablespoon salt
4 cups vegetable stock
2 tsp baking powder
1 bunch chipilín, leaves removed from stems and coarsely chopped
Banana leaves, defrosted and well rinsed

Instructions

Prepare the banana leaves—Remove and discard the center rib. Line the steamer basket with a layer of banana leaves. Cut the remaining leaves into 8-inch squares. Set stove burner at medium heat. Pass each leaf square quickly across the burner a few times until slightly wilted; do not overheat or it will become brittle.

Make the masa—In a mixer, cream the butter on medium speed until smooth. In a separate bowl, combine all the dry ingredients before adding the vegetable stock to create a dough. Add the dough to the creamed butter and mix on medium for about 2 minutes, until slightly fluffy. The mixture should have the consistency of thick cake batter that barely sticks to a spoon. If the batter is too thick, add a little more vegetable stock. Mix in the chipilín leaves.

Stay in the loop with Food First!

Get our independent analysis, research, and other publications you care about to your inbox for free!

Sign up today!

Assemble the tamales—Put two heaping teaspoons of batter in the center of the banana leaf square, flattening it a bit. If using filling, such as beans or cheese, add about a tablespoon on top of the batter. Fold opposite edges of the leaf toward the center, then do the same with the outer edges to form a closed rectangle. Tie the tamales with narrow strips of leaf.

Steam the tamales—Place the tamales in the steamer and cover with a lid. Steam for 45 minutes to an hour. Serve with salsa.

Notes

  • Masa harina and frozen banana leaves can be found at most Asian and Mexican markets. Do not use masa preparada because it contains fat.
  • For a vegan option, use solid vegetable shortening in place of butter.
  • Cooked tamales freeze well. Do not thaw before resteaming.

On the Table is a regular feature in Movements, Food Sovereignty Tours’ monthly newsletter. Subscribe now to stay up-to-date on our new and upcoming tours!